Assalaam aleykoum (peace be upon you) from Kuwait.

Since August, my family and I have experienced firsthand this oil-rich sheikdom that has played a much larger role in recent history than one would imagine based on its small size—about as big as New Jersey, with a population of two million.

I am currently an associate professor in the Department of Psychiatry at Kuwait University School of Medicine. I have been involved in teaching psychopharmacology to the medical students during their clinical rotations in psychiatry (medical school here begins right after high school and lasts for seven years). I also serve as a consultant with the Ministry of Public Health at the Psychiatry Hospital and am working on a clinical research project aimed at examining novel antipsychotic drug treatment of schizophrenia. The clinical work has been the most fascinating aspect of my experience here, particularly seeing many of the cross-cultural issues that arise in psychopathology. For example, sometimes in the clinic, we will see individuals who believe that the "evil eye" has been placed on them. Patients will thus attribute many of the woes that have befallen them to the evil eye.

In addition to the native Arab population in Kuwait, we have many patients from a wide spectrum of countries, since there is a large expatriate community. Kuwaitis make up only about 40 percent of the population.

Although Kuwait is a relatively conservative Muslim society, one notices the American influence all around. Every area of town has its Pizza Hut, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Wendy's, etc. The McDonalds on the Arabian Gulf is the most opulent setting in which we have ever devoured Big Macs! Our favorite foods here are actually Indian and Arabic, especially schwarma, which is slow roasted meat rolled in pita bread. We do our grocery shopping at the Sultan Center, a supermarket with most everything one needs. It is so popular that it has become a weekend hangout of sorts for male Kuwaiti teenagers, known locally as shebab. Kuwait is in fact a very consumerist society, with an endless assortment of shops and souks (markets).

One advantage of being in Kuwait is its proximity to many other countries of interest. We left the day after Christmas for a week's respite in Egypt, including camel rides by the Sphinx, climbing inside the great pyramid, bargaining in the marketplaces, cruising the Nile, and wandering through the ancient temples and tombs of the pharaohs. We also plan to travel to the United Arab Emirates, Greece, and Turkey.

Now we are getting ready for the lunar month of Ramadan. For four weeks beginning January 10, Muslims will not eat or drink anything, even water, during daylight hours. In fact, it is illegal here for anyone to do so in public. At sundown, there is great feasting and visiting, often all night. Because of this, schools and work have shorter days, and little gets done. The month of Ramadan is followed by days of eid (celebration). We look forward to experiencing Ramadan and celebrating the feasts afterward. One Kuwaiti family has already made us promise that we will celebrate at their house on the most important day of the eid.

Although many people here speak English, we have been learning Arabic, which is a rich but difficult language. Even knowing a small amount is greatly appreciated in our daily interactions. Social life is very important here, and hospitality is highly prized. I have had the chance to visit several diwaniyyas, which are male social gatherings where friends gather to talk and drink tea and Arabic coffee. My wife, Diane, has had the chance to develop friendships with Kuwaiti women, some of whose faces I will never see, since they wear facial veils in the presence of men.