On the train from Budapest back to Vienna we were entertained by a couple of chatty young women in our compartment who made some useful suggestions about sights to see in Austria's capital.

Having just come from the House of Terror and the Great Synagogue in Prague, we were reminded that Austria prefers to ignore its Nazi past and its most famous native son--Adolf Hitler. But there are memorials; a major one to the Holocaust and this modest monument at the site of the former Gestapo headquarters near Schwedenplatz. The inscription reads "Never forget."