The old women of the village broke off the recitation of the Vedas (to the considerable irritation of the priest) to chant for us some powerful traditional hymns to hand-drum and tambourine accompaniment. These women were shy about showing their faces, but eager to show off their singing, which was wonderful. The threshold of this temple was spread with a fresh layer of purifying liquified cow dung.

Many of us considered this impromptu visit as the high point of our trip.