N8's 351w and engine info page
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This page last updated on Mar.28, 1999.

 UNDER CONSTRUCTION AT THIS TIME, NOT COMPLETE
351w:

These pix were taken while on the engine stand.  I started out using the small distributor cap (Duraspark conversion), but now have the large cap.....I also now have an MSD Blaster 2 coil.

These are all about 60-80 K  I haven't sorted them out very well, expect some to be deleted soon.......some added soon......

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Front of engine showing 302 (stock) water pump, stock 73 fuel hard lines, the Duff power steering bracket relocator and stock power steering cooler, etc. PS02.jpg
Top shot showing power steering pump in place on the stock aluminum bracket that slides on the pivot post/threaded rod PS01.jpg

The oil pan I got off a 85 Bronco with a 351w.  $65 at a salvage yard for the pan, pickup tube (different than 302), diptick tube and dipstick.  With the 3.5" suspension lift I have, I still rammed the front edge of the rear sump with the front axle while extreme wheeling.  Not too bad of a dent, but just goes to show that this pan is not a perfect fit...but I only paid $65 instead of the $140-200 for the proper setup.
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302oilpan.jpg
duffheaders.jpg

INTAKE MANIFOLD REAR WATER PORT TAP TO INCREASE COOLING
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It can be any brand of 351w intake.  302's can be done, but I haven't looked at one enough to tell how.

You can see that there is a flat boss just begging to be drilled where the water ports dead end.

On another note, Edelbrock and some other companies offer some of their aluminum intakes with all this stuff built right in!!!

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/man_ford_351w.html

go to this page and you will see several with the feature built in.

I would recommend doing it with the intake off so you don't get metal shavings from drilling into your cooling system.

I used a 1/4" pipe thread tap, very common, because you can get brass fittings and elbows just about anywhere with this size.  I then attached 3/8" fuel injection hose (couldn't find 3/8" heater hose at the time) to a brass 3/8" T.  Then I ran more 3/8" FI hose to the side of the engine and connected it into the return heater hose (that goes back to the water pump.)  This way the water pump pulls the hot (and I mean wicked hot) coolant out of the back of the motor.  Ford must have done something like this because you can go to any parts store or Ford and get the heater hose T to make this work.  It is heavy duty plastic, 5/8" for the heater hose lines and 3/8" to hook perfectly into the line coming from the T on the back of the intake.

I used a tapered tap, so I made sure I ran it in and out just enough for the fittings to get tight when cranked down--a step you have to be carefull with.  I also used teflon tape on all the threaded fittings as a backup.  No leaks at all.

I did it on a stock 2 bbl, low profile (low performance POS), cast steel/iron, 351w intake.  Basically because I had it, it was free.  It drilled really easy, and tapping was very very easy as well, just don't over do it, or you wont get the fittings tight.
 

1970 big valve, large intake runner heads, ported exhaust

unported and ported comparison (91 K)
unported and ported with exhaust valves installed to see comparison (107 K)
 



Carburetor:

Motorcraft 2100 2 bbl carburetor, fuel lines

I would not recommend unscrewing the throttle plates, or removing the throttle shaft when cleaning/soaking the carb body. Depending on the condition of the throttle shaft and bore, you could damage (gouge, scrape) either by removal, which can lead to vacuum leaks. I use a extra oil drain pan (clean) for soaking larger parts, like the carb, in parts cleaner. The carb body pieces won't fit in standard gallon cans of parts cleaner.
info sheet, ID tag, assembled top and bottom view (solenoid throttle positioner wire hanging on side) (64 K)
view from top, disassembled and partially assembled (70 K)
view from bottom, disassembled, bore size, assembled (73 K)
view from sides, disassembled, and assembled (67 K)
spring loaded float, power valve (54 K) Spring is very light and doesn't hold up float when float bowl is empty. It controls float very well when gas present.
pre-carb pressure overflow/T-fitting/return line, rear tank return (81 K)
manual choke conversion, aftermarket air cleaner interference, stock air cleaner fit (79 K)
stock air cleaner (88 K) (Pix appropriate for Early Bronco Barn air cleaner comparison??)

Slow idle adjustment (use engine decal or manual for specific year, engine specs): NEED TACH, Should have VACUUM GAUGE

    1. set timing using proper procedure(s)
    2. engine at operating temp, choke fully open, air cleaner installed, headlights on high beam, automatic trans in drive (BLOCK WHEELS), hot idle compensator valve closed (if applicable, I don't know what it is, I don't have one, haven't seen one)
    3. adjust throttle stop screw to specified idle speed RPM using a tachometer (if you have solenoid throttle positioner, solenoid lead must be connected so solenoid will be energized)
    4. adjust idle mixture needles/screws to obtain the highest RPM and/or vacuum at the leanest best idle
    5. readjust idle speed if necessary (disconnect solenoid throttle positioner at bullet connection then adjust throttle stop screw (back driver's side of carb) for lower RPM (usually 500 rpm) with automatic or manual trans in neutral. Connect solenoid, open throttle and release, recheck higher idle speed.
I set my 73 302, with automatic, 900 RPM in park, 650 RPM in drive with engine fully warm. (850, 600 RPM without headlights on)


e-mail me at i6735189@wsunix.wsu.edu.

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