UNDER CONSTRUCTION AT THIS TIME,
NOT COMPLETE
I can't believe how easy it was.....The hardest part was gathering the parts.
Spindles, (37 K) drum on left, disc on right, notice length is different at the base, between the inner bearing surface and the bolt surface to the knuckle (the area where the inner bearing seal rides.) The spacing is identical between the bearings, but the extra thickness of the disc backing plate and where the rotor rides is why the lower (inner) section is longer on the disc version. The bearings ride in the same area as the drum spindles, just a little farther out. Take a look at my hammered drum spindles and you can see exactly where the bearings ride because of the wear marks.
Bare knuckle,
no grinding done yet (88 K)
Knuckle
with disc backing plate & spindle, grinding done (58 K)
Drum
versus Disc backing plate, spindles installed. (57 K) Notice
the length difference and the axle shaft end. You cannot use the
snap ring with the disc spindle.
Disc rotor, bearing hub installed on spindle (76 K) The bearings are obviously installed in the bearing hub already and the rotor is installed with the wheel studs pressed through the back. The bearings are the SAME as the drum type. Notice that the disc wheelbearing hub goes on the OUTER surface of the disc rotor. The drum wheelbearing hub is DIFFERENT because it sits on the INNER surface of a front drum. This is another reason why the disc spindle must be longer to keep the bearings riding on the same spot.
Previous pic with
calipers and pads installed, inner locking hub mechanism (305K) Notice
how you cannot use the snap ring on the outer axle end with the inner locking
hub mechanism installed. This is where you put the large washer and
bolt in the end of the axle instead.
Other side,
different angle but clearer picture. (184 K)
New flexible brake lines to calipers and the jamnut to hold the line to the brackets. The hard line threads into the ends of the flex lines. (48 K)
With the information I have heard, there are larger calipers on some
4x4 Ch*vy versions, and these are the ones I have.
The Ch*vy trucks that used these calipers were
designed with a master cylinder (MC) with a 1 1/8" bore. The stock
EB drum MC can't be used because of the residual check valve in the front
port. Also the stock EB disc AND drum MCs use a 1.0" bore.
They just don't push enough brake fluid to use with the larger Ch*vy calipers.
At the time I did the conversion, I did not know this, and was pissed for
weeks at having to pump the hell out of the brakes to get them to work.
The first pump would always bottom out the MC, fine on the second quick
pump. I bled about a gallon of brake fluid through over that month,
using a vacuum pump, one way bleeders, two man system, everything at once.
There was no way any air was in the system, so I knew there must be something
else wrong. That's when I asked about the Ch*vy specs. Coby
(EBR) said that he was using a MC from a 73 F250/F350 with a 1 1/4" bore.
I tried it out, and.....damn what a huge difference! Maybe overkill,
because the increased bore means it is harder to press the brake pedal,
but it won't bottom out now. The MC is from a 2wd 73 F250/F350 (Camper
Special) with dual piston front calipers (designed for big calipers, obviously.)
The great thing about this MC is that the ports exit to the driver's side,
just like the stock drum MC. NO clearance or linkage problems whatsover!!
The MC is the same width as the drum MC, but about an inch taller to hold
more fluid. Much like the EB stock disc MC holds more fluid by being
wider.
There are other versions of
Ford disc MC that have the ports on the driver's side but with different
bore sizes to fit your needs. Mid 70's F250/F350 2wd trucks with
dual piston calipers have a nice 1 1/8" bore MC that corresponds exactly
with the bore size Ch*vy designed. Late 70's F250/F350 4x4 trucks
have a MC with a 1 1/16" bore for a little more fluid than stock, but a
good feel. Many people on the EBR have tried all three with good
results. Make sure you check with your parts person for bore sizes.
If I ever need to replace
the MC for any reason, I will most likely go for the 1 1/8" bore version
instead of the 1 1/4" bore version that I have now.
NAPA part #s, please double check these!
##%*#%^**%##%* can't
find them at this time, just wait....
UPDATE Sept. 2000. Through personal e-mail with another EB and Ford enthusiast
(Michael Jewell, mijewell@mindspring.com), he has discovered and is using a 1 1/8" master cylinder that
seems to work very
well. Here is a cut and paste job of one of his emails to me for your information:
"O'Rielly's ended up getting me a cast iron 1986 Mustang SVO
master cylinder for the same part number I had for the aluminum one. I
guess they have no way to distinguish between the two. I installed the cast
iron one in the Bronco.
The pedal stroke is now where it is supposed to be. With
the stock Ford 1" m/c, the pedal stroke was pretty long. With the SVO
1-1/8" m/c, the pedal is firm up high like it is supposed to be. However,
it still takes a little hoof in the right leg for a panic stop. I guess
that is normal when compared to a car.....especially with over-sized wheels
and tires. Perhaps the new pads and newly-turned rotors need to seat, yet.
My wife drove it and she felt it was now quite safe. She wouldn't drive it
before.
The installation proved to be no problem at all....perfect
fit. The port for the front brakes required an adapter which was already on
the Bronco 1" m/c.
If you are interested, the Capri got the aluminum SVO m/c
and it works excellently. You can stop so fast you will lose your chewing
gum!
That should do it! I would recommend using the SVO m/c
rather than buying an adjustable rod. It's gotta be a lot safer!
Later,
Mike Jewell"
Stock EB type
disc master cylinder, (84 K) 1.0" bore just like drum master
cylinder. Differences include the front port for the front discs
does not have a residual pressure check valve (if it did or you use your
drum master cylinder, there will always be pressure on the front discs-
not good.) Also, the lines exit towards the passenger side--very
inconvenient as they lines get in the way of the throttle linkage and have
to cross over the valve cover.
Disc MC vs
Drum MC (57 K) Notice the height is the same, but the disc MC is much
wider, further contributing to the throttle linkage interferance.
1 1/4" bore
Disc MC Notice it is taller than stock Disc MC, but same width as stock
Drum MC (66 K)
Side view
(65 K)
More pix in progress
E-mail: i6735189@wsunix.wsu.edu
